Carlos & Mateusz
Coal Coast, October 2013.
Conversation glimpses with Matt Chojnacki aka Mateusz aka @thewaxhead
"But seriously if what's in my head came out in real life I'd be the best artist in the world! There's a million things in my head. It's definitely not relaxing on a wave, it's like a chore, like I have to do it!...No, No it's to explain. When you're surfing, when you're on a really good wave...it's no monotonous, you keep going back for it. It's like eating, you know you goto do it. It feels like that to me anyway. It's just surreal, you do it subconsciously".
"You should write a book Chon"
"I'd love to write a book but I'd have to wait 'til i'm 80 and write something important...
"No it's not monotonous like 'Ah shit i'm on another wave, it's like, I don't want to say it's like i'm born to do it but"
"It's like it's where you're supposed to be?"
"Yea Yea it's like a daily ritual, a pleasant habit. When you find that speed spot it's like a million things are going to happen down the line but i'm just content where I am, if that makes sense? But a million things are in my head but i'm where I want to be and i'm happy...acting on full instinct...
" 'What is Surfing?'. That's my book. But I never actually come to an explanation, it just goes on then at the end of the book it just says 'What is Surfing?'...
"High performance longboarders, their wave knowledge is distorted because they have to perform manoeuvres. Taylor Jenson & Harley Ingelby are very good, well rounded surfers but some of the dudes who ride longboards because they can't / don't ride anything else and have their wave judgement is just so poor because they choose the small waves they can do tricks on instead of just sitting there trimming, using their 9 foot of board waiting for a sick section they just pick a small bowly one and just go 'smack, smack, smack!' You'll never see them wait for the set of the day and line it up and do one massive roundhouse, instead they'll do 3 off the tops with a close out floater...oh, the closeout floaters in the early 2000's! Holy shit if you did one of those you were getting a 7! You waste a whole wave and doing a few touch fives and then a closeout float. Guilty of it! Oh, and then three-o's came in. Tail drop three-os! They were like, oh man if you did a three-o, oh! That's when I started thinking 'Nah, it's gone too far'
"Imagine how they'd talk about you Chon? 'He just wasted the whole wave & didn't even do any tricks!' " (Josh)
"At the beginning some of the dudes at the contests were actually really supportive because they couldn't do what I was doing and then it started to get popular and then they'd complain to me about all these dudes doing nothing on a wave, but for some reason they never actually criticised me personally. I was a mediator, because I used to do the comps too. Then it just got out of control, a lot of those guys just stopped going to the contests and the tables turned."
Photo and average journalism by: Matt Johnson
Film & edit by: Josh Simpson
Carlos & Mateusz
Source – http://vimeo.com/80787565